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Linen: properties, critical points and care

Linen fibre is undoubtedly the favourite fibre for the summer. Linen fabric is a natural fabric highly appreciated worldwide as a hallmark of quality, crafted into beautiful shirts, dresses, bedsheets and tablecloth.

Characteristics

The fibre is extracted from the stem of the flax plant. It belongs to the Liberian fibres, obtained from the part underneath the bark.

Other Liberian fibres:
• Ramie
• Hemp
• Jute

longitudinal view - cross-section

Its performance depends on its composition, which can vary in percentages:
• cellulose – 65-70%
• pectin consistency – 20-25%
• wooden and cuticular textures – 4,5%
• ash – 1%

PROPERTIES

It has certain characteristics or properties:
• it absorbs sweat;
• it dries quickly;
• it allows the skin to breathe;
• it is very resistant and can therefore be washed many times without getting damaged, on the contrary, it becomes softer and softer, which is extremely important for the summer clothing that requires frequent washing;
• it has an extremely low elasticity, so linen fabrics do not warp;
• it has a high degree of hygroscopicity, 20% higher than cotton and only 30% lower than wool;
• it has a high thermal conductivity;
• it is a good temperature regulator; linen is in fact able to confer a feeling of freshness (it is perfect for summer clothing) but at the same time manages to keep a constant thermal balance (so it is also good in winter);
• linen fabrics are not getting easily dirty due to the smoother fibre surface.
Even after soiling, the penetration of dirt into the fibre is low, and dirt release during washing is higher.

Of course, this does not mean that we should pay less attention when wearing or when washing, drying and ironing this type of fabric.

CRITICAL POINTS

Linen has, however, some critical points.
Linen is not elastic, it is the less elastic of all the natural fibres (it is creasable and making folds) due to its 2 – 2.5 % elongation at break, and therefore we must pay attention because there is the risk for possible shrinkage. Like in the case of all non-elastic fibres, we must pay attention to shrinkage.

Linen shrinks naturally after the first wash. On average, pure linen shrinks by 4%. To prevent clothes or fabrics from changing size or dimension, many companies are performing a pre-wash to the linen fabrics. Thanks to this first wash, the fabric will suffer only a minimal shrinkage at the next wash. Before tailoring the curtains, it is necessary a gently wash of the fabric, because even a del 2-3% shrinkage, can consistently reduce the length of the curtain by 5-6%.

curtain before washing - curtain after washing, it shortens on average with 6%

Note: in a laundry shop, when a customer is bringing a curtain for washing, it is always advised to obtain a declaration of indemnity, not knowing if it was washed before tailoring.

Linen is heat-sensitive, it becomes yellow at 120°C as cotton and it has a low wearing resistance.

As shown in the diagram below, linen is the fibre that together with silk and acetate has the lowest wearing resistance.

abrasion laboratory test -
low pilling resistance, superficial hair spillage

the stains cannot be removed: spotting stains -
ease of snagging in linen blends (weft) and cotton (warp)

MAINTENANCE

Like all natural fibres, linen requires some careful attention for its care and maintenance to avoid losing its precious characteristics.

Linen, unlike cotton, for example, attracts less dirt and can therefore be used or worn longer before washing. This fibre is extremely resistant, so normally it does not require delicate hand washing, but it is recommended to be washed in the washing machine. The white linen items can be washed with a normal 60°C program, while for the coloured ones it is better not to exceed 40°C. Due to its low resistance to pilling, it is advisable to reduce the mechanical stirring and pay attention to the spinning: if too aggressive, it can ruin the fabric fibres. The advice is to set a delicate program or to exclude the spinning. Do not leave it too long in the drum at the end of the washing cycle and do not overspin.

The simple benefit of water on linen fabrics is that when air-dried, the creases will flatten out, maintaining a very natural movement. After washing, you must immediately hang the items for avoiding unnecessary creases, wrinkling or humidity stains. To keep the colours bright and avoid yellowing, it is recommended to air-dry and never in direct sunlight. The ironing phase is crucial, as linen is a fabric that can get easily wrinkled. It can be ironed at high temperatures, as well as steam ironed, starting on the reverse side and then passing straight. Linen can be ironed at high temperatures and tolerates steam very well. For easier ironing, it is best to start with a damp fabric, or moisten it before.

Coloured linen is not tolerating bleaching detergents, those containing optic bleacher, because they are too aggressive on colours, so it is better to avoid them. When washing linen fabrics, it is recommended to use less fabric softener, as softener is in fact the responsible for the pilling, forming little fibre balls after wearing and maintenance, causing an old and neglected appearance. If the bleaching is really necessary, it is advisable to use perborate or hydrogen peroxide-based products. Linen can also be dry-cleaned, but in the case of a curtain, considering the type of (thin) stains deposited on the curtain, drycleaning is not recommended.

LART

Laboratorio Analisi e Ricerca Tessile
Textile Research and Analysis Laboratory
Via Vasco de Gama 2 41012 CARPI (MO)
Tel. 059 645279
lart@lartessile.it – www.lartessile.it

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