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ETSA, how do you influence European policies on behalf of textile services?

The identity of ETSA: the statutes, the certificate of incorporation, functions, duties, and goals. What are the policies under discussion, what’s on the agenda, and what are the priorities for action? We discuss these topics with Elena Lai, the General Secretary of ETSA (European Textile Service Association), a European organization dedicated to textile services. Headquartered in Brussels, ETSA not only gives a voice to industrial laundries but also represents the machinery, textiles, and detergents suppliers related to the industrial laundry market. The association also includes national associations from individual countries. In essence, ETSA is an umbrella organization that brings together different stakeholders involved in the maintenance and textile care industry.

Elena, what is the role that ETSA plays in relation to the European Parliament, considering its location in Brussels?

“Brussels is a strategic place because, as an association, we can directly communicate with the institutions of Europe, starting with the European Commission, which is the source of all European legislation. We are active from the earliest stages of the legislative process, where regulations take shape, and we strive to influence their direction by staying updated on the market and representing industrial laundries. We also play an active role with the European Parliament and Member States. During every Trilogue, and therefore every negotiation involving the three European institutions, ETSA has consistently influenced the legislative development from the outset. Our goal is to safeguard the interests of the sector by following the “law-making process” comprehensively.

What are the Trilogues?

The Council of the European Union, the European Parliament and the European Commission can also organize informal inter-institutional meetings, known as “trilogues,” to help them reach an agreement. Such meetings are attended by representatives of the Parliament, the Council and the Commission

We need to explain what our sector is, its needs and its requirements. However, in some cases textile services are lumped in with the textile industry, but our market has its own philosophy, its own identity, its distinctive features. When I joined ETSA, I have set myself the goal to emphasize the importance of European institutions understanding what circularity means in textile services.
Why are we more circular than others when it comes to circularity?
In 2021, there was an opportunity to become climate ambassadors for the European Commission (within the framework of the famous EU Green Deal). We travel around Europe to showcase our best practices but also work in synergy with other segments of the sector to become a model of circularity through analysis, providing data always related to legislative matters, directives, and the evolution of European regulations. This is what ETSA does in cooperation and coordination with the representatives of national associations”.

Which are the pending dossiers at the moment?
“The first front is the Waste Framework Directive and all the various schemes of European Producer Responsibility (EPR), which was initially applied only to the fashion market but is now expanding to include all textile services and will become crucial in 2025. The European Parliament is questioning whether this system should also be applied to workwear and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). As an industry, we are asking for a delay because these cases are more complex: PPE is made in a specific way, contains particular substances, and its recycling needs to be studied accordingly. What does ETSA has to say? We need more time. It is necessary to invest resources and identify suitable solutions. Surely, the time for recycling workwear and PPE will come as well, but it’s important to proceed step by step and not make abrupt changes.

When dealing with the famous EPR Schemes (Extended Producer Responsibility), there will inevitably be taxes to pay, and those who place the product on the market will be “targeted.” However, this will not only affect textile manufacturing companies but also those involved in maintenance, such as industrial laundries. There will be a couple of years of advocacy and lobbying. We need to understand how the EPR system should be developed at the European level. At the moment, only a few European countries are implementing it: the Netherlands and France have been pioneers, but other states will need to adapt as well. What has the European Commission said? They will create a delegated act to harmonize the EPR system across all Europe. ETSA needs to hear from all the involved countries to understand how this need for adaptation can be externalized from Northern Europe to Southern Europe. Listening to all voices and thinking of a model that satisfies everyone is crucial”.

Apart from the Waste Framework Directive, what other legislative dossiers are you following?

“The Ecodesign Regulation, and specifically the Digital Product Passport (DPC), is another key legislative dossier that is generating significant discussion. In this context, ETSA has recently been involved in a European project called CIRPASS 2, which will define some guidelines for the Digital Product Passport for various sectors, including textiles. Within this project, there is a pilot phase called Lighthouse Pilot, where discussions are focused on workwear and PPE. We are still in the early stages, and our role is to be privileged observers. Industrial laundries are well-informed about the necessary changes, both from a digital transformation and a green perspective. Smaller laundries will face greater challenges in adapting (and the national associations of ETSA will need to support them), unlike larger laundries, that have innovation departments and can probably manage the transition with less difficulties”.

What about the PFAS banned by Europe?

“An important area of focus is PFAS, where ETSA has played an extraordinarily active role in terms of advocacy. This is particularly crucial for a significant part of the sector, especially for the laundries involved in the Reimpregnation Process for PPE which must retain certain essential substances to ensure safety in the workplace. There is an extensive debate at the European level led by the ECHA and the European Commission. ETSA has provided important material to both entities, emphasizing that the Workwear/PPE sector needs time to study some alternatives to PFAS (some of our laundries and suppliers are already doing this). However, it is currently essential to ensure the safety of the European citizens, as some of these substances are critical for maintaining the safety of uniforms and, consequently, human lives (consider firefighters, for example). We have requested a transitional period for our sector to comply with these changes. So, there’s a lot on the table regarding this issue”.

What are the PFAS?

The European Commission has adopted new restrictive measures to limit the use of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl compounds, known as PFAS or “forever chemicals” due to their resistance to environmental degradation. The restriction, introduced under the REACH regulation to mitigate risks associated to chemical substances, aims to reduce exposure to these compounds in specific commercial applications where there are safer alternatives and where the risk is not properly controlled. The new measures affect several daily use products, such as certain textiles (especially rainproof jackets), some personal protective equipment, food packaging, consumer mixtures (including waterproofing sprays), and certain cosmetics (such as skincare products). The use of PFAS in firefighting foams for training and testing will also be subject to restrictions, without compromising safety during firefighting operations. The new restrictions will come in force 20 days after publication in the Official Journal of the European Union, with transition periods ranging from 18 months to 5 years, depending on the sectors involved. This timeframe will allow companies to develop alternative solutions to replace PFHxA in widely used products, while also encouraging innovation toward cleaner and more sustainable chemical alternatives

We know that our market, particularly that of industrial laundries but also that of suppliers, is facing difficulties regarding the workforce recruitment, what measures can be taken to overcome or reduce this challenge?

“The skills topic is crucial in finding suitable personnel for the laundries but also for the suppliers. The new generations often do not understand the job opportunities our sector can offer, not only from an operational perspective (in laundries or manufacturing), but also at the managerial level and especially in relation to sustainability and digital skills/robotics, where numerous opportunities could arise. The laundry world has many facets and different areas of interest that can really be surprising. In addition to this, there is also the need for professional updating, as innovation is rapidly advancing: robotics, artificial intelligence. It is necessary to focus on retaining and fostering loyalty among the workforce”.

How is it possible to attract young people?

“This is a subject of discussion with our members in our working groups: research, innovation, environmental protection, workforce recruitment and adaptation. Companies are often hesitant to share the secrets of innovation, after all we are in a competitive market. However, the role of ETSA is to help them understand how, under such conditions, it is possible not only to defend market share but also to improve their business when goals are based on common needs, both for large companies and small/medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). The future Horizon partnership “Textile for the Future”, which ETSA strongly supports, in synergy with the European Technology Platform and EURATEX, two of our partners, is an example of this”.

The health crisis has sparked a new consciousness and awareness concerning the importance of hygiene. How are you proceeding, and what are you doing in this regard?
“An important contribution comes not only from our large companies but also from our individual national associations, particularly the great work done by Assosistema in Italy regarding Reusable products. Italy has paved the way at European level and is essentially a model for other EU countries. For laundries, hygiene is an essential element. Think of healthcare, nursing homes, and even reusable textile tableware, which is sanitized after each use through a cleaning and disinfection system in industrial laundry. We are organizing an internal working group on this aspect. We must work on educating the end consumer, helping them understand the benefits of using reusable fabrics instead of single-use products. We can do a lot in terms of promotion and education. Consider the use of paper; its environmental impact is devastating, not to mention the looming threat of deforestation. In this regard, we can do much by paying close attention to the innovations brought at the European level by the Green Public Procurement and Italian regulations that clearly highlight the advantages in tenders related to the supply of reusable products.
Studies and data analysis strengthen our task of helping the end user to understand the necessity of reusable products. We must seek the most appropriate tools to better promote this important message, which ultimately becomes a double advantage for the industry but also for the citizens…” concludes Elena Lai.

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