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Care and maintenance of technical garments: operating guidelines

di by ING. VITTORIO CIANCI
Direttore LART – Laboratorio Analisi e Ricerca Tessile

The care and maintenance of technical garments is a unique challenge due to their intricate construction and the diverse range of materials involved. These garments typically incorporate a combination of outer fabrics, support knits, functional membranes, bonding adhesives, insulation, zippers, heat-sealed seams, and various accessories. Due to their delicate composition, these garments are generally limited to water-based cleaning methods. The use of solvents, especially perchloroethylene, commonly employed in dry-cleaning, can compromise the integrity of the adhesive bonds between membranes and fabrics, resulting in a significant loss of performance and overall durability.

1.GUIDA LAVANDERIA_DETERGO_DICEMBRE_2025

How can water penetrate the inside of a waterproof garment?

The causes can vary and may include:
- degradation of the coating or laminated synthetic film;
- unsealed or poorly sealed seams and zippers that in technical garments are critical points of vulnerability. To prevent water infiltration, they are typically protected with sealing tapes.

visible delamination of the outer film, with wrinkling and surface rippling, as shown in the photo

separation of the inner layer resulting in visible wrinkling on the exterior

distacco pellicola esterna causato da una non perfetta reticolazione del collante di accoppiatura con perdita di resistenza alla colonna d’ acqua perdita di idrorepellenza e resistenza al passaggio d’aria

detachment of the inner film has led to the formation of an apparent external stain, caused by different light reflection, accompanied by a loss of hydrostatic head resistance, reduced water repellence, and compromised resistance to air penetration compromised air barrier properties

detachment of the zipper cover, resulting in loss of water repellence, allowing water to penetrate through the
closure system

Seams and zippers are sealed using waterproof adhesive tape (applied internally on seams and externally on zippers) to prevent water inlet. Consequently, the presence of water inside the garment may indicate that water has infiltrated through these closure points rather than through the waterproof fabric.

this is another case of heat-applied sealing tape over the zipper coming off due to the mechanical stress caused by
repeated opening/closing and washing cycles

These technical fabrics are susceptible to damage from mechanical abrasion during use. This type of wear often becomes visible during maintenance processes, revealing the material's low snagging resistance, as illustrated in the photo.

the tights show evident abrasion in the seat area, as seen in the photo

During the washing processes, even in domestic settings, the use of overly alkaline detergents can compromise the integrity of both the waterproof membrane and the insulation materials, such as polyester padding or natural down. As for final finishing, the use of steam is not recommended, both to avoid damaging the lamination between the membrane and the fabric, and to take advantage, when permitted, of the regenerating ef-fect of dry heat on water repellence and resistance to water penetration. In fact, the water-repellent effect of the resins applied to the fabric may significantly lose effectiveness after washing, but in many cases dry ironing can help to fully restore their performance.

Pay attention to the colour fastness of accessories on technical garments: in the photo is an example of a cord stopper that bled and stained the fabric during dry-cleaning. For garment maintenance, water-based cleaning is generally recommended. However, in cases where dry-cleaning is required, is advised the use of Hydrocarbon solvents or Sensene, as these are significantly less aggressive with resin finishes, an assessment supported by their lower Kauri-Butanol (Kb) index compared to more powerful solvents.

A higher Kb value means that the solvent is more aggressive and more likely to dissolve or degrade adhesives and resins. Technical fabrics often feature PVC prints (e.g., logos), which can harden in cold and cause laminate cracking during movement, a defect known as “cracking”.

Some garments are finished with heat-transfer prints (e.g., logos or lettering), which can detach after washing. Zippers and other accessories in technical garments are subjected to extreme humidity and low temperatures, which can lead to degradation and, in some cases, failure of the zipper mechanism.•

the zipper and its slider have deteriorated due to prolonged exposure to moisture and low temperatures

DETERGO MAGAZINE # DECEMBER 2025

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