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EPR and textile recycling, where does producer responsibility stand today?

Marzio Nava

The textile sector stands at a critical juncture. In the coming months, the introduction of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) will require a structural reevaluation of the entire supply chain, from product design to end-of-life management. This shift goes well beyond regulatory compliance: it signals a systemic transformation set to reshape industrial models, consumption patterns, and the organization of waste management systems.

Ongoing dialogue between institutions and industry stakeholders, reflected in recent public-sector discussions, underscores the significance of the forthcoming draft decree. The measure represents a pivotal step toward establishing clear and consistent rules for a value chain currently hampered by structural limitations, particularly in the collection and treatment of textile waste. The impetus originates from Europe, which designated textiles as a priority sector for the circular economy transition in 2020. Within this framework, EPR introduces a simple yet revolutionary concept: producers are responsible not only for placing products on the market, but also for managing their end of life. If effectively implemented, this mechanism has the potential to steer production toward goods that are more durable, repairable, and recyclable. A great responsibility. For Italy, this transition carries particular weight. As one of Europe s leading textile producers, the country faces persistent challenges in waste management. Separate collection rates remain limited, while disposal and energy recovery continue to dominate. Consequently, the potential for improvement is substantial, but for achieving it will require a significant leap in infrastructure, technological adoption, and organizational efficiency.

The new regulatory framework aims to expand collection systems to include materials that are currently excluded because they are not suitable for reuse. This expansion presents complex operational challenges, including the need for adequate treatment facilities, advanced sorting technologies, and careful management to preserve the value of garments destined for reuse. Producer engagement is essential. With eco-modulated fees and collective compliance schemes, companies will contribute financially and actively to building an efficient, transparent supply chain. Many are already preparing to meet regulations and shape this transition.

At the same time, stronger enforcement against environmental crime will be key to EPR, creating a more controlled system less vulnerable to illicit practices. Sustainability and legality are therefore closely linked. The transition to a circular textile economy will not happen overnight. It will demand sustained investment, technological innovation, and robust collaboration between public and private sectors.

Yet the direction is now clear: to transform a predominantly linear system into a circular value chain capable of recovering materials, minimizing waste, and generating new forms of competitiveness. This challenge extends beyond the industry itself, impacting consumer behaviour and the perceived value of products. As Nobel laureate Milton Friedman observed, "There is no such thing as a free lunch," implying that this necessary transformation will likely involve shared costs across the value chain.

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